Edge Finishing Techniques Part Three - Flat Fell and Bias Bound Seams

Many times, you’ll hear those who sew for fun or as an occupation say that their seams look as good on the inside as they do on the outside. While beginners might find the task of creating gorgeous seams inside and out to be difficult, there are several finishing techniques that aren’t as hard as they seem!

Finishing Techniques | Fabric in Portland 


Over the past couple of blogs, we began discussing the different types of edge finishings for fabric in Portland and how they’re created. Today, we are going to continue by talking about flat fell and bias bound seams.

Flat Fell - Often considered a seam for denim and jeans, this type of finishing offers a clean look for those that are using a fabric that ravels easily. You can use this edge finishing technique on any type of fabric, on the inside of your garment. Unlined jackets and other fabrics that are harder to control work well with this method, also.

To achieve this look, you’ll want an underside of the seam allowance to be a fourth of an in. Trim any excess off, before moving on. Then, take the top seam and place it over the fourth of an inch trimmed seam. Finally, topstitch the edges together, pressing the pieces together lightly, as you go.

This seam also works nicely with men’s dress shirts. It’s a sure way to get the raw edges tucked away, leaving nothing but a clean, smooth seam, inside the garment.

Bound Seam With Bias Tape - In our last blog post, we talked about a traditional Hong Kong seam, also known as a bound seam. Using bias tape for this type of seam is quite different, yet very similar.

This seam works great with jackets, dresses or unlined skirts. It’s a beautiful alternative that leaves you with a gorgeous finish. You can even use this seam to throw in a pop of color to an otherwise drab garment.

The best way to start this seam is to use double bias tape. Wrap the tape around the seam and then pin it in place. Then, sew the right side down, along the length. If you’re using single bias tape, the seam with be a bit more narrow but you’ll be able to use it the same way.

As you’ve sewn in the tape on the right side, move on to the opposite side. You’ll find that when brought up to meet each other, each seam should meet each other flawlessly.

We hope you’ve enjoyed learning more about the different types of edge finishing techniques! If you’re interested in reading more, visit back with our next blog, soon!

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Josephine's Dry Goods | Fabric in Portland 


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